Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Incredible Manipur





Incredible Manipur-the Shangrila of the North East.

Our aircraft hovered over the snow white clouds before landing on the oval shaped valley below languishing in dark tans of grey and green colors with the blue green hills encircling the horizon like an emerald necklace. That was Imphal airport within a striking distance of 6k.m. in the capital city of Manipur. Literally Manipur means “a jeweled land” whose justification we could trace from certain typicality of its flora and fauna which led us to believe that this state is “ incredible”, the Hindi synonym of which stands for “Atulya”. Let us see how far this state stands for this epithet from our experience as a visitor.
We visited Manipur Zoological garden at Iroisemba at a distance of 6k.m from the state capital – to the west ,located at the slope pine growing hills on the Imphal –Kangchup road. Our purpose was to see the near extinct Manipuri dancing deer called “sangai” Mr.E P Gee-the leading wild life authority visited Manipur for this purpose as far back as in the late fifties of the last century. He observed that out of the three remaining species of this antelope surviving in the south east Asia, the Manipuri one was having its habitat “at a corner of this (Loktak)… lake …It is a very rare and extremely elegant deer- the brow –antelered one. It is so called because the brow lines of its anteleres sweeps forwards and the beams backwards in a continuous graceful curve”. It officially became extinct in 1951 , but a few years later was reported to be still existing in the vast swampy areas of the Loktak lake (pic—1).Mr.E P Gee wrote that “ the first thing I found was that the 10 sq.mile ‘swamp’ in which the deer live , is not an ordinary swamp.It is a floating one , consisting of a thick mat of humus and dead vegetation which actually floats on the water of the lake. About one fifth of this mat is above and four fifths below up to a 15 feet height. This mat of humus is called phumdi by the Manipuris and its thickness varies from a few inches to about 5 feet”. This lake is a unique ecological phenomenon whose counter part is 6 in number all over the globe. Even 50 years after Mr. Gee’s visit we had not seen much changes except human pressure on the bank of this lake. Mr Gee continued to narrate that “ the deer by living there for thousands of years , have developed slightly splayed – out hooves; their pasterns are hairless and horny so that they can walk with them bent down on the reeds and grasses and not sink through the phumdi”. This movement / postures continued through their genes and this species have earned the epithet as Manipuri dancing deer. So it was our priority to rush to the Zoo here. After entry , we proceed ed to the marked enclosure for this antelope. It was full of tall grasses and reeds-but certainly unlike the environment of Loktak lake area. We could not see the “sangai”. Disappointed –certainly not. A man Friday appeared from no where .He started throwing stones at the grasses. The hoolock gibbons stated shouting enormously from their enclosure nearby. And the hero i.e. the single surviving male Manipuri appeared on the stage( pic—2).The animal really looked graceful and its movements at every stage revealed dancing rhythms. I felt that the sheer survival instincts and necessity over the floating mats of grasses at Loktak lake had made its muscles rhythmic and genes passed through generations- a rare coincidence and unique for Manipur.
We swooped on Manipur on the pre Holi festival day. Since this ceremony has the status of being the number one for this state and continues for 7 days at a stretch , our apprehension was that it would cross all limits of revelry and frolics as were usually observed from else where in the country . contd-page-2.
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So we thought of visiting Shri Govindjee’s temple early in the morning – as the prime venue of Holi celebration by the Manipur people. We accordingly started around 8 A.M. On our way we could see mammoth long runs – one after another – all by children and women of all age.( pic-3)They were running like waves with lighted torches in hand followed by motor cyclists acting as watchmen. We enquired from the passers by- why this long run at this Holi day. The reply was –all for sports, good health and social discipline for Manipuris. What about celebration of colors? “Go to the temple and see”. So we rushed for Govindjee temple.We could see on the road leading to the temple huge procession of aged people- male and female – all in colorful dresses , of saffron, orchre and spotless white. Each group carried their distinctive banner of red, yellow or green colors with drums, cymbals and chanting names of the Lord.( pic—4) They all assembled on the temple ground and stood silent. Each group in a row climbed the stairs for the hall platform , stood in a circle and started chanting prayers. The temple appointed persons sprayed color waters with syringes on the worshippers. We were only a handful of photographers taking shots but no one even through colour waters to us. A surprise is indeed. Every where serenity, modesty and discipline prevailed. The dominant participants were Manipur ladies .They spear head the society at large , as we could see when we visited Ima Market i.e. the Mother’s market in mid town.The other name is Khwairam band bazaar.Here 3000 or more Imas ran the stalls. We saw ladies acting as money changers( pic—5),ornament sellers and associated with brisk trading and ancillary activities. I took several photes and all ladies co operated with me. I could see the finale of women lib here at this far off corner.

The indomitable spirit of the people is manifest in their lust for sports and related activities. Sports is to them is just worship. One unique feature we could see on this Holi festival day was their mass visit to Kangla Fort(pic—6)- the C.R.P.F. head quarter where they used to pay respect to their martyrs whose fought bravely against the British in 1891,The revolt was spear headed by the Royal Scion Bir Tikendrajit who was hanged by the British Manipur people had not forgotten this .Therefore , they took up sports on a war footing. On the holi festival day , we had seen sports competition all through available open spaces – even blocking the roads. We asked the people and they replied with a smile- sport is their life. Is not Manipur “ Incredible”.
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